Tours Travel

Namibia

John and I have returned from twelve days in Namibia.

Having been to Africa a couple of times before, I didn’t feel the need for many visitors to “check all the boxes”, “see the big five” … whatever you want to call it. Call me a Philistine, but once you’ve seen one reticulated giraffe, you’ve seen them all. I was looking for a different kind of trip.

If, like me, you want to experience a landscape that is totally unique and witness first-hand one of the most hostile and dramatic environments in the world, Namibia is a must. I get astonished.

We start the journey in Windhoek. A rather indescribable city, but a pleasant enough place to recover from the flight and an interesting glimpse into the horrors of modern German-influenced architecture.

The next day we left. South. We were recommended to go through a special pass, which we duly did. When we rounded the corner of the pass, there in front of us was the most amazing view of the desert. I jumped out of the car, shot a roll of film, and would have gone home happy right there.

If he had known what was coming, he would not have even rolled down the window.

For the next four days we were in various places in the southern part of the Namib Desert. I will not list them. They all have their different merits and it depends on what you are looking for. For the record, my clear favorite was the Wolwedans, where we spent one night at Lodge Camp and then another at Dune Camp. What you prefer is really your decision. Lodge Camp is luxurious, Dune Camp is authentic. The food in both is truly exceptional, perhaps the best I’ve had on safari.

The Wolwedans area is totally, totally impressive. I don’t have the vocabulary to describe the landscapes and that’s only half the wonder of this place anyway. The atmosphere and aura are incredible to behold and the changing colors of the dunes defy belief. You won’t see much wildlife, but what you do see has a very special beauty and demands the utmost respect. Seeing a Gemsbok live a life in the Namib Desert is, for my money, more impressive than a Lion in the Masai Mara at any time.

The other area we visit in the south that is probably on most people’s “Namibia Goals List” is Soussusvlei. In the whole trip, this was the only time I saw someone else. It’s Namibia’s number one tourist attraction and it shows, but even if that bothers you, it’s still worth a visit. The mystique of the desert is somewhat lost here, but they are the highest sand dunes in the world and they are incredible. My advice, which will make the most sense when you’re there, is to go straight through the famous dunes and into the less-visited area called Deadvlei (you’ll need a 4WD car). Get there ASAP when the shadows are long. I guarantee you amazement.

While in the south we squeeze in a couple of extras. One morning we ballooned over the dunes. If you are a virgin globe, this is a great place to lose your cherry. It was and I loved it, despite my fear of heights.

I don’t like horses, camels have bad breath, and elephants are very uncomfortable to ride so quad has always been at the top of my list. The Namib Desert is a very, very fragile environment, so initially the ecotourist in you may feel a bit uncomfortable with the idea of ​​quad biking. Two hours later, you will be perched on top of a sand dune watching the sunset with a vodka and tonic in hand and your ethics will be long forgotten. Trust me, this is cool. I challenge anyone not to shout for joy as they fly through the desert on these modern camels.

We then headed back north to Swakopmund on the coast. Initial reactions? What the hell are we doing here? It makes Windhoek look like Venice. However, my opinions changed. If you follow an impressive desert landscape with another impressive desert landscape and then follow it with another impressive desert landscape, you may get a little tired and lose perspective. In retrospect, and in view of the mind-blowing four days we were about to embark on, I’m glad we had this short time.

Especially since it gave us time to practice a little shark fishing. You have two options; off the boat or the beach. Those of logical mind might assume that the boat would amount to greater success and bigger fish. Not one bit. Choose the beach, without a doubt. Even if you’ve fished hundreds of times or have never caught a rod in your life, I urge you to give it a try. This is totally unique and completely exciting. Unfortunately, I can’t say more, as any description of the day from me, I’m afraid, would only deepen the wounds in John’s pride. Suffice it to say that as a “collective” we were very successful. The good thing was that they all returned to the sea.

We then embarked on what was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. Schoeman’s aerial safari of the Skeleton Coast. For the next three nights and four days I was subjected to the most relentless assault of dazzling landscapes, exciting experiences, fascinating knowledge, infectious enthusiasm, and an incredibly beautiful mind in the boundless African wilderness. amazing time.

I like to think that I have traveled a little. I drove a motorcycle from Calcutta to London, lived in the jungles of Belize for six weeks, canoed rivers in Canada, played soccer in Japan, traveled the Karakorum Highway, lived on desert islands in the Philippines, camped in the favorite place of Lawrence of Arabia. Wadi Rum desert … I could go on.

In Africa I have been fortunate to experience the A list of safaris. I have traveled with Robin Hurt and Ker & Downey. I was at Abu’s camp in Botswana, I rode horses with PJ and Barney, I saw a leopard kill … again, I could go on. But nothing, and I don’t want to say anything, touch the Schoeman Safari.

I don’t want to try to describe it. Two reasons. First, I can’t. Second, the best thing about Schoeman’s journey is the brilliance with which the brothers unravel the desert before their very eyes and ears. Every day new surprises arise and open new doors for you. The Schoemans have lived here their entire lives. It shows, they are crazy, and you would be too. But within that madness is an incredible source of knowledge and a passion to share it. I never really knew that a place like the Skeleton Coast existed on this planet (Henk Schoeman, the youngest of the brothers and our guide, is convinced that the recent images emerging from Mars were taken here).

Having one of the Schoemans show me the coast of Skelton and seeing it in this style was the last thing. This is the real McCoy. Do not answer.

However, it is hard work. Airplanes and land rovers are old and uncomfortable. The pace is relentless and the campgrounds are basic, but definitely more than adequate. The food is not good, it would be logistically impossible for it to be better.

But that is exactly what makes this trip so wonderful and real. Living in the Namib Desert is not a walk in the park, and frankly, if the Himba tribesmen can survive years of drought, then you can handle four days of rough travel. I guarantee that when you hit land at the first sight of the camp you will be completely dumbfounded, and you have yet to experience the land rover slide, the welwitschia plant, the bushmen artwork, the roaring sand dunes (the thing most amazing I’ve ever seen). heard), desert elephants, bread baked in a coffee pot, shipwrecks, the kaleidoscope of quartz, colonies of seals …

But above all this and more, you will experience pure, totally and completely unspoiled nature.

Something rare and incredibly beautiful.


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