Jungle notes – Returning home to Rosa Blanca
With my time in Puerto Viejo coming to an end, I arranged to spend a night in San José before traveling to the Pacific coast of the country. In Costa Rica, travel distances can be extremely misleading. Due to poor road conditions in many areas with the rainy season creating more havoc, it is necessary to plan your time accordingly. Additionally, it is not uncommon for local Ticos to underestimate travel times by an hour or more, leaving tourists with a distorted perspective. No harm is meant here; This is most likely due to the slower pace of this culture and the generally relaxed attitude of the Ticos towards time.
My next destination is a small surf town called Playa Nosara, located in a province called Guanacaste. Traveling to this section of the country can be quite a challenge in the rainy season due to terrible driving conditions, where muddy potholes and small rivers make roads virtually inaccessible to larger tour vehicles. I know from previous experience that the public bus system in Costa Rica can be brutal with frequent stops at every corner. I wasn’t prepared to spend the day on a hot bus with live chickens and screaming babies, so I arranged through my hotel in San Jose for a private driver to take me to Nosara.
Finca Rosa Blanca is an exquisite private family estate situated in the foothills of the central valley on acres of coffee plantations. Located approximately 15 minutes outside of San Jose, the property is stunning, the night air is crisp and crisp, and the rolling green mountains fade behind silver-gray clouds. The staff is friendly, attentive and hospitable. At night, a roaring fire burned in a stone fireplace in the cozy dining room as the lights of San José twinkled against the distant mountain range.
Rosa Blanca has the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a private home, there are horse stables and a large greenhouse where local organic vegetables are grown. Separate buildings house has full service day spa, main guest house and private bungalows. During the day, guests can tour the coffee plantations, relax in the outdoor Jacuzzi, swim in the tranquil lagoon-style pool, access free Internet and wireless service in the private office center, take a guided horseback ride through the surrounding hills or just relax. walk through the beautiful gardens and take in the stunning views.
At Rosa Blanca I dined alfresco on the patio with a stunning view of the distant mountain range and the twinkling lights of San José. Dinner at Rosa Blanca consists of four courses for a fixed price of $35. The portions are generous and the cuisine is light, healthy and delicious. The kickoff to my four-course indulgence was a bowl of silky black bean soup. Topped with a delicate crème fraiche topping, the soup was light and soothing with a light kick and a refreshing hint of coriander. The warm goat cheese salad was excellent. The thin slices of cheese were encrusted in a delicate breading and literally melted in my mouth, complementing the earthy flavor of the crispy vegetables and sweet/spicy vinaigrette dressing.
The main course consisted of four jumbo shrimp topped with sea bass and surrounded by a colorful mix of organic vegetables grown in Rosa’s own gardens. My glass of merlot provided the perfect smooth accompaniment to a wonderfully satisfying meal on a cool evening after a long day of travel. Although I was too full to consume the rich chocolate flan dessert that awaited me, I didn’t have the uncomfortable feeling of a meal laden with butter, fat, or thick sauces. However, I resigned myself to hitting the treadmill and dusting off my yoga mat after my return to Charleston.
After a long day of travel and frustrating logistical challenges to overcome, I was looking forward to retiring to my beautiful room for a hot shower and a good night’s sleep. My room at Rosa Blanca was spacious and cozy; large windows opened onto an outdoor terrace with a panoramic view of the surrounding acres of coffee plantations and the distant mountain range. The delicate white curtains danced in the cool night breeze. Rosa Blanca’s rooms are designed in an artistic style; each one has different characteristics and a special theme with a matching name. For example, in Los Aves, which means birds, there is a scene of a tropical bird painted by hand on the bathroom wall. My room had a huge soaking tub covered in Spanish tile and a separate relaxation/meditation room with large windows and a long cushioned bench for lounging or reading.
There was plenty of hot water and a generous supply of biodegradable shampoos, conditioners, moisturizers and soaps in my elegant and immaculately clean bathroom. After a rejuvenating shower I felt genuinely clean for the first time since leaving Charleston. This was a welcome change after spending a week covered in Puerto Viejo muck, a combination of thick humidity, perspiration, mud, and mosquito repellant. In Puerto Viejo it rained every day, and nothing, I mean nothing, dried up. When I unzipped my backpack in my room at Rosa Blanca, I swear I detected a wave of the familiar scent of Puerto Viejo, something akin to hippie backpackers burning incense. I fell into bed exhausted, smelling of citrus mint soap and talcum powder. The king-size bed at Rosa Blanca was so plush and luxurious, and the high-thread-count sheets so crisp and inviting, I felt like I was sleeping on a cloud.
Breakfasts at Rosa Blanca are abundant, delicious and free for hotel guests. Rosa Blanca has all the qualities one would look for in a five star resort; fabulous cuisine, aesthetic details, beautiful gardens, stunning views and a very attentive staff. Allan at the front desk and Shirley the General Manager were extremely patient and reassuring as I wrestled with my many travel-related questions and challenges. Glenn and Terri Jampol, the hotel’s owners, are originally from California but now maintain Costa Rican citizenship. It is clear that Rosa Blanca is near and dear to both of them, as Glenn’s late mother envisioned and designed the place and nurtured the hotel during her childhood. His two daughters grew up in Rosa Blanca, surrounded by their beloved dogs, cats, horses, friends and family. Both Glenn and Terri are well traveled and offer a wealth of information about Central America. They clearly enjoy dining and mingling with their guests over fine wine and cuisine, sharing lots of laughs and heartfelt stories of how two laid-back former Berkeley students decided to build a life in Costa Rica.
I had the pleasure of experiencing a surprise Cimarrona (local music group) performance during my stay at Rosa Blanca. In the middle of dinner, Terri got up from her seat and began to dance, encouraging all the guests and employees in the dining room to join her in a joyful explosion of song and dance. Within minutes, everyone in the room was dancing; Her feet stomped, hands clapped, and the previously silent dining room was transformed into a celebration of music and life.
If you are traveling through Costa Rica, it would be a shame to pass through San José without staying at Rosa Blanca. It is the perfect home base to rest and rejuvenate, as many popular tourist destinations in Costa Rica require a transfer via San José. If you’re interested in taking a coffee plantation tour, visiting a volcano, or scheduling a horseback riding adventure, be sure to contact the Rosa Blanca staff in advance. Allan, Barbara or Shirley will be happy to help you. If you decide to hire a private guide to transport you around the local area or even on a longer trip, Manolo and José are wonderful and reliable guides, and both speak fluent English.
José and his beautiful daughter Catalina accompanied me from San José to Playa Nosara, and I couldn’t have felt safer or more comfortable if I had traveled with a dear friend. José is one of the kindest souls I encountered during my stay in Costa Rica. I learned many lessons from José through his strong family values and his simplistic approach to life. José explained that in his small town on the outskirts of San José, most people live in close proximity to members of their extended family, allowing for a strong network of social and emotional support. Jose’s children have never been left with a babysitter, as all of his grandparents live within a five-mile radius and are closely involved in the child-rearing process. According to José, this is the norm in Costa Rica.
José said he doesn’t know of any children with an ADHD diagnosis or a prescription for stimulant medication, and he attributed this surprising cultural variance to the highly attentive parenting style common in Tico families. José shared that one of his brothers experienced a messy divorce and the negative impact on the children involved was quite noticeable and disturbing. This is not the case in her family, José explained, as his wife is always available to help Catalina with her homework after school and make sure the work is completed. In the rare event that a babysitter is needed, there is always a grandparent, aunt, or uncle nearby, available to watch the children. José explained that in his town life revolves around the family; close relatives fulfill not only essential functions, but also social/recreational needs.
José said his birthday is tomorrow and he is very excited to have the day off from work. “Are you planning something special?” I consulted. “Yes,” Jose replied. “We’re planning a family barbecue.” “Are you expecting many guests”? I consulted. “No,” Jose replied, “she’s just my wife and kids, and I wouldn’t want it any other way.”